Random Musings: Kashi Yatra

It was Mark Twain who after visiting Kashi commented that the city looked “older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together”. I have been fascinated by Kashi (also known as Banaras / Varanasi) for a long time and have been meaning to make a trip for a few years now. During the three and a bit years’ I lived in Indore, I thought of travelling to Kashi but somehow, I could never make it. Finally, I got a chance in early April this year when I decided to join a yoga group.

This being my travelogue, it is a collection of my observations and experiences during the week I spent there. There is abundant material available on the internet / books that can enlighten you on the myths, customs and even on the significance of the geographical layout of this ancient city.

2^nd April

I reached Varanasi around 7:30 PM - the evening before we were supposed to report at the assigned venue. The airport was neat and well maintained but around 30 kms away from the city.

Since I had no clue, I had booked overnight stay based on feedback on the booking sites. The prepaid taxi chap took one look at the address and started complaining. It appears that the areas near the ghats are very congested and four wheelers find it difficult to navigate there. After a heated conversation with the hotel chap on the phone, the cabbie reluctantly took me to the place.

Nearing the city, we passed by the cantonment area which was upmarket with many swanky hotels including the Taj Ganges and even a mall.

And boy was the cabbie right! It took us 45 minutes to cover the last 2 kilometres. Pedestrians, bikes, cycle rickshaws, cows, dogs, cars and electric rickshaws jostled for space on narrow roads. A couple of chaps had parked themselves underneath the roadside tap calmly lathering themselves with soap. Being Navarathri (Ram Navami was a few days away), every single temple was decked up and the loudspeakers were trying to drown each other out. Two wheelers were continuously honking as if this act would give them extra horse power.

I had to walk the last 250 meters since the car would not go any further. Quickly dodging the hotel manager’s rant on the driver, I took a shower, grabbed some food and went to sleep – I was so tired that the condition of the room and lack of amenities did not matter.

3^rd April

Since I woke up early, I decided to make the most of the location of the hotel. I quickly walked towards the Dashashwamedh ghat which is the primary ghat close to the Kashi Vishwanath temple. While the ghat area was crowded at this early hour, the roads were relatively empty.

At the main ghat, it was a mela atmosphere. Boat men were soliciting customers for rides, others were offering to put ‘tikka’ for a fee, tea sellers were selling wares and pandits on raised platforms offering to do kriyas for pilgrims.

I decided to walk to an adjacent ghat (Ahilyabhai ghat) which was quieter. Settling down to a cup of lemon tea I watched the sunrise over the ganges – it was a beautiful experience.

After an hour or so I walked back to the hotel and stopped by ‘Sita ki rasoi’ to have yummy puri sabji.

Reporting time at the main venue was noon. So, I quickly checked out from my ‘city’ hotel and started the hunt for a cab to take me there. After a couple of hits and misses, I finally got someone who agreed to take me to the cantonment area which was where our ‘new’ hotel was located.

The group as I was soon to find out numbered around 100. The organisers were volunteers from the main yoga centre (including a couple of brahmacharis) and local volunteers. They were very patient and meticulous. Over the next few days, everything was near perfect – they divided us into groups of 15 and each group was assigned a leader and a tempo traveller.

Post a sumptuous lunch, we proceeded to Sarnath. As you may be aware, this is one of the four most important pilgrimage sites for Buddhists. It was here that Buddha gave his first sermon. It is also well known as the place where the “Lion Capital of Ashoka” pillar was erected. The museum run by ASI (no cameras allowed inside) displays what remains of the ‘lion heads’ and the ‘chakra’. The official state emblem of India is from part of the structure. Close by at the stupa site, one can find the remains of the original pillars.

It was interesting to see the ruins of the ‘Mulagandhakuti’, the hut where Buddha spent the first rainy season while at Sarnath.

The Dhamek stupa was very imposing.

The guide also told us an interesting story about the ‘Dharmarajika Stupa’ of which only the foundation is visible today. It was demolished by the Kashi naresh (ruler of Kashi) and his general carted away the rubble to Varanasi to be used as building material for a market that stands to this day!

4^th April

We made a very early start on 4^th April waking up before 1 AM in order to participate in the Mangal aarti at Kashi Vishwanath temple. The mangal aarti is the first aarti of the day. All floral offerings from the previous day are removed before abhishekam, fresh decoration and aarti - if one is lucky one can get darshan of the original lingam devoid of decorations. Because of the rush I couldn’t glimpse the lingam but got a good darshan of the mangal aarti. It was an elaborate ritual and a mesmerizing experience – not to be missed. Meditating in the courtyard post the aarti was also a calming experience.

After darshan, we also visited the Annapoorna temple and Vishalakshi shakti peet both of which are close to the Vishwanath temple. The walk to the pick-up point from the shakti peet gave us an opportunity to walk through the newly built Kashi Vishwanath corridor. It was grand and imposing.

Unfortunately, I do not have pictures to share since we had to leave our phones etc. in the room before proceeding to the main temple in the morning. Here is a picture I took earlier of the main entrance.

Notice the statue of Adi Shankara atop the dwar.

Here are a few pics from the internet of the main temple and the mosque

Mangal aarti

The temple complex from above

Gyan vaapi mosque

The original site of the Vishweshwar temple was adjacent to the Gyan vyapi well (well of knowledge), this structure was demolished and rebuilt at least thrice - the last time on the orders of Aurangazeb who ordered the Gyan vyapi mosque to be built on top of it. In the picture above you will not fail to notice that part of the original structure was left untouched.

The present temple was funded and built by the famous Holkar queen Abhilyabai. One interesting thing about the temple is that the original temple complex had a statue of Nandi facing the original lingam. When they rebuilt the temple at the adjacent site, they left the Nandi as-is. The Nandi still faces the old structure (now mosque)!

Today the whole complex is heavily guarded and barricaded. There is a huge metal barrier all around where the present temple and mosque share a common ‘wall’.

There is a huge tree that gives shade to both the temple and the mosque. This tree and the gang of monkeys that run amok in the complex are possibly the only large beings that can freely access both places of worship!

We returned for a late breakfast and some well deserved rest. Due to the temperature touching 42 degrees during the day, the protocol for the next few days was – early start, rest during the day time and travel again after 4 PM

After a nap, we proceeded to the ghats again – this time for a boat ride and a view of the ganga aarti at Dashashwamedh ghat from the boat.

Here are some pics I snapped of the ghats.